40K: Customized BA Librarian

Introducing Bellerophon of the Black Blade!

The first 40K model I've finished in far too long. And, by finished, I really mean "still needs a coat of matte finish and some high gloss on the blade and gemstones."


This is a souped-up version of my Blood Angel's HQ done more for modeling enjoyment than for game play - I normally don't equip him with Terminator Armor or with a Thunder Hammer. And, with the Wings of Sanguinius power, maybe Terminator Armor is a viable option . . . ?

Parts Used:

• Axe arm from the Space Marine Librarian in T. Armor (along with some sprue and plastic rod
• Sword arm from a Grey Knight Terminator
• OOP Inquisitor in Terminator Armor (can't find a link to it) which I've always loved, but never really got to use until now

I tried to paint the force sword in a manner similar to Master Darksol's Bloodletters - with the glow emanating from the hilt - but fear it didn't turn out quite as nice.

Still, I'm happy I finally finished a model and reasonably proud of the way it turned out.

40K: Blood Angel Hellstorm - a VDR Conversion

The first serious conversion I ever made, beyond a simple mix-n-match. It's been sitting on the shelf for so long, I actually had to glue the turret back together for the updated pics. This was my anti-infantry solution before we had Baal Predators.

It was made primarily from an older Predator Tank, a gun from a generic action figure, the chassis of a military-style cannon, and the sidecar gunner from a Space Marine Attack Bike. Additionally, bits were taken from a firetruck and a helicopter to give it more detail.



The point cost was checked against an online VDR calculator from Age of Strife.

40K: DE Haemonculi on Skyboards Tutorial

In an under rated army, Haemonculi are one of the most under rated choices a player can take. With their Destructors, Haemonculi can wreak havoc on any race in the 40K universe. The main drawback to this weapon, however, is its short range. What the Haemonculi needed most was mobility. Enter the skyboard.

Why use a skyboard instead of a jetbike? Personal taste, mainly. I'd already converted an Archon on a jetbike and wanted to do something different. Plus, it simply would not do for the subservient Haemonculi to be riding around on something as nice as the Archon's chosen mode of transporation.

With the exception of some moderately difficult sculpting, this conversion was somewhat easier, but much more tedious and (to my dismay) hazardous to my fingers than the jetbike conversion was. It is not recommended for people just starting out in the wild world of model conversion.

Here are the parts and raw materials used for this conversion and their part numbers (where applicable):

• 2 x Babylon 5 Narn Ka'Toc Battle Destroyers
• 2 x Dark Eldar Haemonculi w/Destructor (011200301)
• Wych 7 w/Blaster (011200113)
• Sybarite 1 (011200201)
• Spiky Bitz from Dark Eldar Warrior Sprue(45-07)
• Citadel Modeling Epoxy Putty - "Green Stuff" (66-13)
• thin paper clip (for pinning)

Step 1: Using a thin bladed hacksaw, I cut across the torso of the half-finished (and already partialy converted) Haemonculi models just below the point on their belts and the Wyche & Sybarite just above the hips and lower abs.

Step 2a: The excess metal was cut/ground out from the under the Haemonculis' belts, leaving a concave area. This step takes forever and is greatly helped by using a Dremel rotary tool with shaped grinding tips - Eye protection is a must! Jewlers' hand files were also used. Don't be suprised if things break off at this stage - especially if they were the result of previous converting.

Step 2b: Once the upper torsos were finished, the tops of the legs were filed and shaped to fit into the smooth concave opening. It didn't half the time of the previous step, but at this point I was sick of removing metal.

Step 3: Once the legs fit to the underside of the torso, it's time to drill holes and add pins to the torso and the feet. Be VERY careful here - especially if you are using a Dremel! I wasn't paying attention and pushed through the legs of one model right into my thumb - it nearly came out the other side. Needless to say, I learned my lesson about paying close attention when using power tools (while watching TV, that is).

Step 4: Once the torso and legs are fitted and pinned, you can glue them together. I did not glue the bodies to the skyboards because I find it's much easier to paint them prior to gluing. You may also want to start replacing parts that broke off from all the cutting and grinding in the initial steps.

Step 5a: At this stage, it's time to add the tabards (made from greenstuff). This took some time, as I have really never used the Stuff for anything more than gap filling.

Step 5b: Rear shot showing the tabards pushed up under the belt of the torso. It was at this stage I pinned the arm that broke off earlier and filled the gap. NOTE: The bodies are not glued to the skyboards - I just photographed them that way to illustrate what I'm working towards (and it holds them upright nicely) .

Step 6: The last stage before painting is to add any further conversion details to the model. Since I had already partially converted the two Haemonculi when I first got them, I just basically re-glued bitz that had fallen off and filled the gaps with Green Stuff. Time for primer!

Note: This is an older article relocated from my website - I've since painted these two and hope to have some decent pics of them up soon.

40K: DE Archon on Jetbike Tutorial (pt. 2/2)

Step 13: After an evening of filing the stumps of the legs, I was finally able to fit the torso into the shallow impression I had drilled in the Eldar biker's legs.

Step 14: The pack on the back of the gunner's torso was hitting the back of the seat, so I had to cut it off using an X-acto knife and clippers. Be very careful when cutting metal with an X-acto knife!

Step 15: I put a mark on the torso and the legs to help me glue it at the right angle. The torso required pinning to the legs because there just wasn't enough surface area with glue on it to hold the torso securely in place. The pin actually went through the legs and will go into the seat of the bike a tiny bit.

Step 16: The biker's left arm was cut at the elbow so it could be re-glued at a better angle.


Step 17: The upper arm was filed slightly and glued to the torso. I sat the body on the bike so I could get a good idea of the angle needed.

Step 18: The forearm was filed out around the elbow to fit the upper arm better. A pin might have been a good idea here, but it would have had to been bent lest it stick out of the arm. I just didn't have the patience for that.

Step 19a: The forearm is glued to the upper arm. Again, I sat the body on the bike to I could be sure an glue it at the proper angle. The string in the picture is holding the body in the correct position until the glue dries.

19b: Here is another shot of the glued forearm and the angle of the torso. I wanted the rider to have a more dynamic,aggressive pose than simply sitting on the bike with both hands on the handlebars.


Step 20: The Agonizer arm is pinned to the torso. It looks huge on the rider by himself, but the bike helps it to appear a little more natural - well, as natural as a sadistic drug-crazed maniac on a flying bike brandishing a bladed glove might appear.

Step 21: The arm is glued into place. I postitioned it back a little to accomodate the wires on the back of the arm as well as to give the impression that he might be drawing back for a strike.

21b: Another shot of the Agonizer arm from the side.

Step 22: While the body is drying, it's time to add some dark character to the jetbike. I used some leftover bitz from my Raiders and Ravagers to enhance the Dark Eldar feel of the bike. Greenstuff was then used to hide seams and fill gaps once the glue dried.


Step 23: Some spikes were added to the legs and the left arm. Greenstuff was used to fill the gaps and seams, especially where the torso and legs were glued together. I try not to use too many blades and spikes for my Dark Eldar because I don't want them mistaken for the many Chaos armies at the two game stores in my area.

Step 24: More greenstuff was used to build up the tricep of the left arm and the back of the torso where the pack was cut off. I put grooves in it to mimic the ribbing of the Dark Eldar armor.

Step 25a & b: Here's the finished model. It is important to note that it is NOT glued together! I am keeping the model separate until after I get it painted, then I will glue it together.


25c & d: Two more shots of the finished model, awaiting paint.

Step 26: OH NO! I forgot to convert the tormentor helm (Good thing I hadn't undercoated it yet)! I had to clip the end off of a Splinter Pistol and file it to fit the curve of the helmet's crest. I could have added some more detail to the side of the helmet, but I was ready to paint.

That's it for the actual converting and modeling portion of this model. Hope it was useful!

I apologize for the inconsistency in the quality of the photos. I'm still new to photographing miniatures.

40K: DE Archon On Jetbike Tutorial (pt 1/2)

There are few things in Warhammer 40,000 as intimidating as Dark Eldar Archon zooming across the field of battle to engage the enemy in close combat. Anyone who says otherwise hasn't been playing very long.

The normal Dark Eldar are fast little models with spike protruding everywhere. That's OK for a standard model, but the Archon is special and I wanted him to arrive on the enemy's doorstep in style! The standard Eldar jetbike was a good start, but needed some work before it could fit the sleek-but-dangerous feel I was trying to achieve with my Kabal.

The story (if you need one) behind this particular jetbike is that it once belonged to an Eldar Farsser who fell before the Dark Lord in combat. Having taken his head, the Archon decided to take his flashy jetbike as well.

Here are the parts and raw materials used for this conversion and their part numbers (where applicable):

• Eldar Jetbike w/Shuriken Cannon Boxset (46-12)
• Asdrubael Vect Gunner 1 (011203008)
• Dark Eldar Lord Arm (011200902)
• Bitz from Dark Eldar Raider Crew Sprue (99390112003)
• Citadel Modeling Epoxy Putty - "Green Stuff" (66-13)
• 1mm sheet of plastic card
• small round plastic rod
• thin paper clip (for pinning)

Step 1: I clean the sprues and pewter parts using an old toothbrush and some dishsoap. It really does make a difference when it is time to apply glue or primer

Step 2: Parts needed are clipped from the sprues and mold lines are cleaned off using an X-acto knife and files.

Step 3: Using an icon I designed for my Dark Eldar, I print out three sizes and compare them to the nose section of the jetbike. I decided on using the medium one.

Step 4: Some thin plasticard is taped over the image and traced with a fine-tipped marker.


Step 5: The design is cut out and the edges are filed smooth.

Step 6: After putting a slight bend in the plastic icon, it is glued to the nose section of the jetbike. Be careful not to use too much glue - just enough to hold all the corners down.

Step 7: Using some round plastic rod, short rivets are cut and glued to the corners of the icon.

Step 8: Moving on to the guns, I cut the end of a splinter rifle with an X-acto knife and clipped the end of the Shuriken Cannon. Some filing was required to get the fit together correctly as the clippers tend to "pinch" the metal to a point.


Step 9: The barrel of the splinter rifle is glued to the Shuriken Cannon. If you are able to successfully pin it together, I'd suggest doing it. I couldn't get it to work out for me, so I just superglued it and moved on.

Step 10: This was my first time using greenstuff. I used some between the barrel and the shuriken cannon as well as covered the seam on the jetbike's fuselage. A little greenstuff goes a LONG long way here!

Step 11: Now the fun begins! I start work on the Archon by cutting one leg at an angle of the Dark Eldar gunner using a thin-bladed hacksaw.

Step 12: The other leg is cut up at an angle matching the model's pelvis.

Stay tuned for Part 2!